Consistently ranked as the top hiking destination in the world, Torres Del Paine National Park in Patagonia needs no introduction. The park itself is almost 700 mi² and would take multiple weeks to explore in its entirety. Most guides I’ve read have split the park into 2 main treks, the ‘W’ trek, and the ‘O’ trek. Depending on your pace and experience, these treks take 3-5 days and 7-11 days, respectively. They require a lot of preparation, supplies, and overnight stays in one of several campgrounds set up inside the park. While there are endless stunning views in TDP and all over Patagonia, the most iconic is without a doubt the base of the Towers at Torres Del Paine.
This is why people from all over the world come to hike the trails of TDP. It’s almost worth getting a selfy-stick just to capture the moment you reach the summit. But getting there is not easy. I would not consider myself an expert hiker but have done my fair share of trails and this one Is easily an 8 out of 10 in difficulty. There is no shortage of steep climbs, vertical cliffs with narrow passages, a bit of bouldering and seemingly endless beautiful landscape. So what does it take to get to the viewpoint to take the money shot? Let’s find out!
How much time should you spend in Torres Del Paine?
This really depends on the rest of your itinerary and your budget but at a minimum, you will need 2 days inside the park itself. The park entrances passes cost $35 USD as of March 2019 and are valid for 3 days. Meaning you are free to leave and enter the park for 3 days after purchasing. There are Park Ranger stations set up at Lake Amarga, Lake Sarmiento, the Serrano River, and a few other places. These are also the main entrances to the park. You’ll need to get your entry pass stamped upon each re-entry. Aside from a minimum of 2 days inside the park, you’ll need another 2 days to get and from the park.
All the park maps and guides will say that it takes 4 hours to reach the top from the trail head. And this is pretty accurate. Meaning you need to allocate a solid 8-10 hours to do this hike. You’ll also want to check the time of sunrise/sunset so you can plan accordingly the day you do the hike. In March, the sun sets after 8pm in Patagonia so you’ll have plenty of time to do the hike if you leave by late morning. The trail itself has a swanky Info Center with a Park Ranger that will not allow access to the trail after 11am. So show up early! Keep in mind that the park has mostly gravel roads and getting from one end of the park to the other takes quite a bit of time. If coming from the South entrance, it takes 45 minutes to get to the Mirador Torres Del Paine trailhead.
Getting to Torres Del Paine National Park
There are several options to get to the park. If coming from Chile, the simplest way is to fly into Punta Arenas and rent a car. It is about a 5 hour drive from Punta Arenas to the park entrance. If renting a car doesn’t sound like a great idea, you can take buses. There are buses that will take you from Punta Arenas to a town called Puerto Natales, and other buses from Puerto Natales that go straight to the park.
Bus Options to get to Torres Del Paine
Puerto Natales is more or less the gateway to your Patagonian adventure. It is filled with backpacker hostels, cute restaurants, and shops with outdoor gear. To chow down on the local fare, we recommend the Kawesqar Cafè right on the main strip.
Punta Arenas is a slightly bigger town but we didn’t find it as pleasant or accommodating as Puerto Natales. We opted to rent a car and drive to the park ourselves.
If coming from Argentina, you’ll want to go through the town of El Calafate. There are buses that operate between El Calafate and TDP that will drop you off at the North East entrance at Lake Amarga.
When to go
The best time to go to Patagonia and see TDP is definitely in the Chilean summer (November – March). This is peak season but people do come all year round and the park is open year round. So if snow and skiing are your thing, it might be best to go during the South American winter. We went in early March and the weather was pretty mild. Low 60’s during the day and mid/low 50’s in the evenings. Bear in mind that when hiking, you’ll be going uphill a lot, and the temperature does change at elevation.
What to bring
I’ve come across lots of blogs and sites that try to solve this riddle and most of them will tell you that you need hiking shoes, lots of layers, a poncho and rain gear. This is mostly true, but some it it can be a bit excessive. Kirsty and I did the hike in regular running shoes and in just a few layers of clothing. It was very cold at the top (high 30’s) so I would definitely recommend bringing layers to bundle up at the top and to take off as you descend. The winds can also be pretty gnarly. There is a section of the hike called the ‘Windy Pass’ and true to its name, it sees constant gusts with speeds up to 50 mph.
On a given day, the weather inside the park can vary greatly. When we went in early March, the temperature would change from 35 degrees in the morning, shoot up to 70 by 1:00PM, and drop back down to the low 50s by 6:00PM. Bring layers and you’ll be fine.
We also saw many hikers on the trails who had Trekking Poles but we found them to be unnecessary. You’ll also want to make sure you bring plenty of water and some light snacks (jerky, nuts, or granola bars). You’ll definitely want to bring a backpack or hiking bag of some sort to keep your snacks, water, camera, and some free space for your layers.
The Hike to Torres Del Paine Viewpoint
Along the 4 hour journey from the trail head to the summit, you might encounter wild guanacos (llamas), emus, and even pumas! They are not really a threat to you but its best to keep your distance and don’t feed the animals. Besides various picturesque places to stop and take photo’s, there are also a couple places along the trail where you can stop to rest your feet. About halfway through the trail, after the Windy Pass, you’ll come across a stream in a valley and lodge. This is the Chilean Refuge area.
This was a logical place for us to stop and catch our breath – they have coffee, tea, soup, and other food. There are also bathrooms, which are clutch because by now, you’ve probably drank liters of fluids. The Chilean Refuge is also a campground so if you do want some hardcore trekking, you can camp overnight in a tent. This is a popular option, so make sure you arrange your stay in advance as space may not always be available.
After the Chilean Refuge, you’ll hike about 40-60 minutes through a woodsy section that is fairly easy. Once you clear the woods, you’ll come across by far the hardest section of the hike. Although it is fairly short distance-wise (1-2km), the last section is all uphill and requires the use of your hands to do a bit of bouldering. If you’ve never done this before, it may sound intimidating. But nothing good is easy, so you can’t let this tough stretch stop you on your way to the top!
You’ll be comforted to know that we saw people of all age groups making their way down as we were ascending. At this point the ‘if they can do it, so can I’ mentality takes over and gets your over the hump!
At the top
Once you reach the summit, it won’t take long for you to understand why this place is so special and why TDP is consistently ranked the #1 hike in the world. So I’ll stop here and just show a couple flicks of what awaits you along the trail and at the top!
Where to stay
We found that the accommodations at the Park were somewhat limited and extremely expensive. I attribute this to the remote location, popularity, and the lack of desire of the Chilean government to disturb the sanctity of the Preserve by installing mass sewage and waste disposal systems. I can’t say that I blame them. Imagine traveling to a one-of-a-kind Nature Preserve in the far corner of the Earth and seeing a 7-story Hilton with a Starbucks on the base floor – total vibe killer! Depending on your dates of travel, you’ll find it hard to find a room for less than $200 a night. Most hotels we checked didn’t even list their prices online and we had to email or call to get pricing info. I personally can’t stand this approach. That being said, here are some of your options:
Hosteria Grey
Las Torres Hotel
Lake Pehoe Hotel
Pampa Lodge & Hostel
If none of these options are doing it for you, the next best thing to do is to stay in Puerto Natales, which is 1.5 hours away. Puerto Natales has dozens of more reasonable options and if you rent a car, you can drive to the park in the morning, stay for the day, and come back to your lodging in Puerto Natales in the evening. We recommend checking out the EcoDomes at Fossil Refugio [insert link]. The host Guillermo is a long time Patagonian resident and can help you plan your stay!
Other things to do in TDP
Besides the hiking, you’ll find that Torres Del Paine has endless opportunity for outdoor exploring and adventure. You can kayak in one of several lakes, ride horses, go fly fishing, take a wildlife tour, or take a ferry to a glacier! With so many activities to choose from its easy to see how one can spend several weeks here and just scratch the surface!
No Expectations Travel Blog 